Technical Troubleshooting

Quick fixes and solutions to common customer complaints

Quick Care Instructions on Cast Iron
Ignition Issues
Cleaning the Griddle & Grill (Grates)
Care and Maintenance of the Cast Iron Cooking Surfaces
BeefEater 101 - Operating Your Barbecue
BeefEater 101 - Care & Maintenance of Your Barbecue
 

Quick Care Instructions on Cast Iron

See also "Barbecue Care & Maintenance" in our BeefEater 101 section
 

Ignition Issues

1. Gently push the gas valve knob in and hold down.
2. Gently and slowly turn the knob, in an anti clockwise direction until the knob engages with the starter cam. Wait one or two seconds to allow gas to flow through to the burner.
3. Continue to turn the knob until it clicks, The piezo igniter has now fired, creating a spark at the sparker box. The burner should now light. If the burner fails to light, wait a few seconds then repeat the process. If the burner still fails to light then use the following procedure to determine the cause of the problem.

1. With the gas supply turned off at the source, look into the grill so that you can see inside the small sparker box through the opening closest to the burner. Turn the knob on the burner valve to produce a spark. This may best be done at night or dusk in order to see the spark. If there is no Spark - go to Step 2. If there is a spark present - go to step 11.
2. The absence of a spark could be due to several causes. Most common, the wire lead from the Piezo rotary igniter to the spark plug is either grounded to the grill body or the lead has detached. The front control panel must be removed to inspect and repair.
3. Remove each of the gas valve knobs by gently pulling the knob away from the shaft with your fingers. DO NOT PRY THE KNOB OFF USING A SCREWDRIVER OR OTHER TOOL.
4. Remove the two screws on either side of the grill frame that hold the control panel. Remove the control panel.
5. The rotary igniter assembly is mounted on the stem of the control valve. Inspect the wire from the spark plug to see that it is plugged into the rotary igniter assembly. Newer units have the wire covered by a ‘white‘ heat shield. If the grill has been overheated, the insulation on the wire can melt and then the wire grounds to the grill body shorting out the electric circuit. If this is the case, go to Step 8.
6. REPLACING THE ROTARY IGNITER: Take note as to how the rotary igniter and related parts are assembled on the shaft of the gas control valve. Using a fine screwdriver, remove the “C” clip that retains the striker arm on the shaft. Remove the striker arm. Carefully pry off the circular compression ring retaining the igniter assembly on the shaft. Note its orientation. Pull off the ignition wire that plugs into the rotary igniter. Remove the rotary igniter assembly.
7. Place the new rotary igniter on the shaft and press on the retaining ring. Replace the striker arm on the shaft. Replace the “C” ring.
8. REPLACING THE SPARK PLUG, LEAD, & SPARKER BOX: Now is a good time to replace the spark plug, ignition wire, insulation sleeve, and sparker box. These are held onto the inside front frame of the grill with a single Phillips head screw. The old screw can become very corroded and difficult to remove. Prying off the sparker box with a flat head screw driver usually works well. Screw on the new spark plug and sparker box slightly bending the tabs to hold it tight to the grill body.
9. Place the white heat shield over the lead and plug the new insulated ignition wire into the rotary igniter.
10. Replace the control panel and knobs.
11. CLEANING THE BURNERS: Remove the burner at the igniter in question. This is done by first removing the safety retainer clip at the back of the grill. Often this clip becomes corroded and you may need pliers to remove it.
12. The small holes along the length of the burner and on both sides, are called ports and often become clogged. The ports should be the size of a 7/64-inch drill bit. The first two ports on the left side, direct the gas into the sparker box. If all the ports are clogged and excessive rust is flaking off the burner, replace it. If the burner looks to be in relatively good condition, brush it down well with a very stiff steel brush. Run the 7/64 in. drill in and out of all the ports. There is a narrow slot across the underside at the back of the burner that allows the flame to jump to the opposite side. Keep this open and clear of rust by running a very fine tooth hacksaw blade down to the bottom of the slot.
13. Another possibility is that a spider or other insect has built a nest inside the burner and it is blocking the normal flow of gas. Also, rust may be flaking off inside the burner and blocking the flow. In either case, take a stiff wire, like a coat hanger, and try to clear out the inside of the burner. This may be a good opportunity to clean the other burners as well.
14. Replace the burner into the grill and if necessary, using a new retainer clip or carter pin, lock the burner in position.

See also "Using the Controls" in the Operating Your Barbecue category of our BeefEater 101 section
 

Cleaning the Griddle and Grills (Grates)

See also "Barbecue Care & Maintenance" in our BeefEater 101 section

Care and Maintenance of the Cast Iron Cooking Surfaces

To help preserve uncoated cast iron cooking surfaces and to minimize rusting, grills and griddles should be properly seasoned prior to use and again whenever rust is visible. The more the barbecue grill is used the easier it will be to maintain the cooking surface and the less likely it will rust. Regular maintenance will only take a few minutes and the rewards are many. There is no better way to grill than on a cast iron grill or griddle. Your food will look and taste better. If the grill is not used or stored for extended periods, then the grates should be generously coated with vegetable oil, wrapped in plastic, and stored in a dry location.

See also "Barbecue Care & Maintenance" in our BeefEater 101 section
 

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